Sep 30, 2009
training matters
i've been doing a condensed periodization training for 4 weeks now and i must say i'm really gratified to see results! i got a little tired of just doing training and heading straight back instead of slowly climbing and chilling with rest. so i decided to sneak one hour of bouldering today. and after some evaluation i realised that i've improved quite substantially! any improvement at all psyches me like crazy! prior to the training i feel like i've plateau-ed, am not able to pull harder despite sufficient rest. i recall not being able to hold onto some tiles at all, e.g. the bar on the 38 degree wall. now i can hold that tile and make moves off it! hooray!
now i finally understand the training i went through in TJ. i remember doing very little fun climb at all, and training was mostly monotonous and tough. sometimes i got frustrated at not having time to slowly milk the climbs. now i understand. i remember i somehow magically ban-kaied at my last and final comp and managed to win inter men. behold the power of periodization. all the magic of training is slowly revealed to my eyes. looking back at my 6 years of climbing, i realised that my quickest improvement rate was during my first 2 years!
this training opens up a world of possibilities for me!
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