Jun 16, 2011

ClimbAsia Athlete Duty - Introductory Interview


We know how important it is to keep your cool during climbing. Hesitation or agitation will distract you from executing a move perfectly. Trying to rush changing feet is another method of inviting failure. For those of you who know Jansen Ko personally and have seen him climb, you would know this brainy and cool climber is the epitome of control and decisiveness. This week, Rock Jock finds out from our new Team Climb Asia athlete Jansen what makes him tick and how we can become the Zen master that he is.


GT2: Hello Great Zen Master Jansen! A big welcome to Team Climb Asia! Care to share with us a little bit about yourself?

Jansen: I wear different hats: a child to my parents, a brother to my siblings, a student to my teachers, a coach to my students, and others. I present different bits of myself to different people, so which bit of myself would you like to know? Thought that I can finally pursue higher learning in university, but ironically education is getting in the way. Luckily, there is climbing to keep me sane.


GT2: Oh studying...less time to climb is never good! Is there anything interesting about yourself that doesn’t involve climbing! Climbers can be such boring people cos all they do is climb and talk and dream about climbing.

Jansen: I’m quite the foodie, especially for hawker fare. Old hawker centres have a lot of history and character. At the recommendation of friends, I will specially travel to some hidden corner of Singapore to suss out the good eats. I feel very at home jostling for a seat in a hawker centre and ordering food in Singlish. Some climbers may adhere to special diets, but I have no inhibitions towards eating local delights like Char Kuay Teow, Mee Rebus or Nasi Lemak, in moderation of course!


GT2: Our local delicacies are probably the reason why Singaporean climbers can stick to the grimiest holds in the universe. Haha! Moving on, so what is it about Climb Asia that made you agree to be our sponsored athlete? What do you hope to contribute by being in Team Climb Asia?

Jansen: A very big part behind the success of any venture is the story it tells. I love the ClimbAsia story, of 3 friends, who at the crossroads of their lives, came together to pursue a shared dream. Their efforts made that dream become reality, and provided a generation of climbers with the inspiration to climb hard. Such a heart-warming story don’t you think? I’m very honoured to have been offered this opportunity to learn and grow with Climb Asia. To fly the Climb Asia flag proudly on my back, that is how I hope to contribute!


GT2: And now for a boring question that every climber asks every other climber: What do you love about climbing and which aspect would you say is the one that most relates to you?

Jansen: Climbing is one entire package of travelling, seeing, learning, trying, understanding, growing. Having sampled a plethora of experiences across the climbing spectrum, I can say this with confidence: I love climbing for its intensity. I do climbing simply because it is difficult. At higher levels, it becomes a form of moving mediation – entering the zone and just letting your instincts take over. You learn so much about yourself that way. Having said that, I also enjoy the company of friends and winding down together after a day outdoors.


GT2: We know you as a very technical climber with composure that will put a Zen Buddhist monk to shame. What goes on in that mind of yours when it is you against the route?

Jansen: I think that composure wise, I still have quite some way to go. I do however, try to master my emotions by learning from the experiences of sportspeople not only in climbing, but in other sports as well. What separates the top climbers from everyone else, is a lack of ego. If you observe carefully, top climbers are nonchalant about their accomplishments. I’m very attracted to the humility, and I want to emulate that.But if you must really know the secret formula, the trick is look aloof and dispassionate on the outside while actually screaming inside!

When I’m on a route, all I think about is how to meld my body into the weaknesses of the rock, to flow across the movements, to persuade the route to allow one more climber to reach its crown.


GT2: Being a busy student, have there been times when you felt it was hard to maintain your high standards of climbing? What methods do you have to motivate yourself to train hard amidst the studying?

Jansen: It is certainly not easy to juggle the demands of school and climbing. Just this semester, I had 6 projects, on top of the usual workload of lectures, tutorials, assignments and presentations. But nothing great is ever achieved without hard work. Knowing that fellow human beings in third-world countries have it much worse serves as a good way to chide myself when I feel tempted to give up. Most importantly, nobody owes me a living. Carpe Diem!

Amidst all the hustle and bustle, I plan a programme for myself and stick to it. When I get down to the gym, it’s all business. Of course, during off-peak periods I like to share, talk and laugh just like everyone else.


GT2: Pumpfest is coming! Can you share with us how you are preparing for the competition?

Jansen: I’m currently doing endurance (build solid foundation) and strength training (muscle hypertrophy). Nearer the competition, I’ll switch to more power-based training (campusing, hard bouldering). I’ll also do competition specific training like bouldering intervals. Not forgetting mental training (onsighting and visualisation) too.


GT2: Any advice for the climbers who will be joining Pumpfest?

Jansen: Live the crowd, enjoy the competition.

The climber must first acknowledge that some nervousness is good. It is the body’s way of raising heartbeat and pumping adrenaline to prepare you for the tasks ahead. But too much nervousness can cripple the climber. I find that a very useful thought is to think that I’m a dancer about to take the stage - the culmination of all the effort from months before is on display. I feel very proud to be able to perform for all to see.

GT2: And we can't wait to catch you in action at Pumpfest 2011! Ladies and gentlemen, that's Team Climb Asia athlete Jansen Ko for you! Remember to head down to Millenia Walk on 4th June to watch him tear the routes apart at the Open Men qualifiers. Your cheers will be a great encouragement to hi
m and our other athletes!

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